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ADVENTURE IN COZUMEL

Watersports dominate the scene here, as there are no golf courses, and only a few decent tennis courts (some of them lighted).

BEACHES

Cozumels beaches vary from scalloped bays and inlets to wide wind-swept swathes of powdery sand. The calm waters of the western (leeward) side of the island are ideal for swimming, snorkeling, windsurfing, and sunbathing. The desolate, eastern (windward) shore is lashed by waves and steady winds, although there are some lovely escarpments and bays safe for swimming.

Western Shore: (Listed north to south)

PLAYA SAN JUAN: To the north of the Meliá Mayan Hotel, this family- favorite has plenty of shade, calm water, excellent windsurfing, and restaurants.

CHANKANAAB BAY: This popular full-service beach invites divers and snorkelers to explore the areas limestone shoreline caves. This is the islands prime snorkeling turf; excellent facilities for swimmers and non-swimmers, include Chankanaab Lagoon and Botanical Gardens (see previous page). Head to La Laguna restaurant for lunch.

PLAYA SAN FRANCISCO: Cozumels best beach stretches 3.5 kms. along the islands southwestern shore. A favorite with locals and dive boats exploring the offshore reef, the beach has plenty of activity at several palapa restaurants and bars. Popular for lunch. Resort development is currently underway, changing the beachs idyllic character.

PLAYA ESCONDIDA: the islands escapist beach is a sanctuary for those wanting privacy and willing to give up a few amenities.

Eastern Shore

PLAYA CHEN RIO: Resting at the end of the trans-island road, this beach is protected by a wall of rocks, keeping the water calm. Very quiet and secluded.

PLAYA CHIQUERO: The eastern shores best beach, Chiquero is a protected crescent-shaped cove, ideal for swimming, windsurfing, and sunbathing.

DIVING

About 80,000 of the islands annual visitors come for one thing: the areas incomparable scuba diving. With over 30 kilo-meters of reefs, water visibility to 200 feet, and over 200 species of tropical fish, Cozumel is considered by many the finest dive destination in the Western Hemisphere. Water temperatures range from summer highs in the low 80s to winter highs in the low 70s (F.). More than 40 dive shops operate on the island, offering advanced dives and beginner instruction. Pick up a copy of Diving and Snorkeling Guide to Cozumel by George Lewbel and Larry Martin, available at shops in town. Much of the diving is drift diving. The areas dive shops have formed a cooperative. Look for shops displaying the C.A.D.O. sticker. These are the islands most reputable operators.

Popular sites include Paraiso Reef, Chan-kanaab Caves and Reef, Colombia Reef, San Francisco Reef, Santa Rosa Wall, Maracaibo Reef, and Palancar Reef (the second longest reef in the world). Several U.S. and Canadian tour operators sell all-inclusive dive packages.

The new (1995) Paradisus Beach & Dive Center is a 20-acre, $1.5 million facility on the islands western shore. This recrea-tion center has a complete dive center, watersports equipment rentals, and restaurants. Open daily 8am-5pm. Tel. (987) 20411.

SNORKELING

Many of Cozumels best spots are within splashing distance from shore. Equipment rentals are available throughout the island ($5-8 U.S./day) The western side of the island is dotted with dozens of excellent sites. Here are a few suggestions.

CHANKANAAB BAY: teeming with fish and calm, clear water; several limestone caves and tunnels make for great fun. LA CEIBA BEACH: a sunken aircraft wreck lies 150 yards off shore in about 25 feet of water, home to a plethora of colorful fish, coral, and sponges.

PLAYA SAN FRANCISCO: calm water and close-to-shore undersea delights. This beach has full-service amenities (dining, equipment rentals).

Full-day and half-day snorkeling excursions can be easily arranged upon arrival, and often include equipment and lunch. For non-snorkelers there are glass-bottom boat trips, arranged at most resort hotels.

FISHING

The areas exceptional diving overshadows the islands excellent fishing. Billfish, including marlin and sailfish, are caught within .5 km. of shore (season: March through June). Dorado, bonita, barracuda, amberjack and wahoo are caught year-round.

Most excursions leave from the Club Abrigo Nautico de Cozumel, located north of town near the airport. A popular billfish tournament comes to the island every May.

LOCAL FISHING FLEET OPERATOR Cozumel Anglers Fleet Tel: (987) 20118 fax (987) 21135

Other Water Sports

Windsurfing, sailing, jetskiing and waterskiing are also popular on the islands western shore. Nearly all resorts have water sports rentals. Playa San Francisco offers the widest range of watersports equipment.